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MAXIMUM: 45 Days
ENTRY/ EXIT: Gorkha
DEPARTURE: 09 April 2011
Manaslu lies in the Nepal Himalaya, Kali Gandaki valley. This mountain was previously known as Kutan l. 'tang' being the Tibetan word for flat place, s thereby describing the mountain's general summit. It was then renamed Manaslu which comes from the Sanskrit word "Manasa" meaning "intellect" or "soul". T. Imanishi & G. Norbu first climbed it in 1956. Many consider the three peaks of Manaslu as Japanese peaks as they were the first to reach its summit in 1956. There exist half a dozen different routes on Manaslu today. The south face of this "mountain of intellect" is arguably the toughest in climbing history. Our caravan route takes off at Sama Gaon, where incidentally Makalu is called Kambung- after a local god. It was here in this selfsame village back in 1954 that the second Japanese expedition met with bitter resistance from the locals. They blamed the presence of the heathen foreigners for the avalanches and pestilence on the valley. They felt that Japanese had insulted the gods dwelling in the mountains thereby angering them into creating such adverse conditions.
Short note about climbing route:
Camp 1 - 6,730m - After 6-7 hours walk we reach in camp 2 through crossing many snowy slopes by fixing ropes in the places of crevassed. Camp 2 - 7,045m - After 5-6 hours we reach camp 3 via steep ascent leading to very gentle ground below the northwest ridge. Camp 3 - 7,400m - From Camp 3, it takes 9-12 hours to reach on the summit. The situation of the groups/climbers' progress and the condition of the physical fitness; and also the favorable condition of the weather depends the climbing ahead.
Climbing Sherpa guide for Himalayan:
We facilitate highly professional, well trained and qualified climbing Sherpa’s for your expeditions. They are very useful in your each and every step of support, which makes your climbing easier to restore your strained energy and it gives you vigorous strength for your next day's climbing.
Note: If you have your private group 10-15, please e-mail us to know the price and detail of expedition. If you are 01-04 and looking for a group to join, visit our fix-departure expedition information.
Mt. Manaslu Expedition 8163m Itinerary
Day 01 Arrival in Kathmandu airport and transfer to hotel
We meet you at the airport; look for a sign with your name on it. Phil and Jamie will meet you in Kathmandu and introduce the crew.
Day 02 Rest day at Kathmandu preparation for expedition
This is a free day in Kathmandu for relaxing, packing and preparing. You can leave any gear which you don't need during the expedition at the hotel.
Day 03 Drive from Kathmandu to Arughat 570m
We leave early by private bus packed with us and our crew. Leaving on the main road to Pokhara we turn off for Dhading and take a rough road to the end, where we have lunch. The afternoon is thru beautiful (and hot) low country, endless fields. Once upon a time in Nepal very trek started like this. Flat land, wandering through lush green paddies, caked in sweat, resting under pipal and banyan trees, with those white giants on the horizon; so count your blessings as we wade a side river and stumble deliriously into the tropical shade of the bazaar of Arughat. This can be a longer day, or as in 2007 the road was so bad that we took one extra day to get to Arughat.
Day 04 Trek from Soti Khola 730m to Korsani Khola
Today will be hot, but classic lower middle hills trekking as we meander along the river.
Day 05 Trek from Korsani Khola to Machha Khola 930m
The country changes, the broad valley narrows and at times the trail is cut into the steep valley side, which is densely forested. We pass a number of small villages, tucked into the hillside, until we reach a widening of the valley, opposite the point where a large tributary stream enters the Buri Gandaki. The terraced farmland here belongs to the village of Lapuabesi. We descend once again to the wide, sandy riverbed and follow a path which runs below the steep, craggy valley side. At length, we have to climb up once again on a trail to Machha Khola. We camp outside the village, which has a number of teashops.
Day 06 Trek from Machha Khola to Jagat 1370m
A few hours of walking by tobacco and buckwheat fields, past rocks washed smooth by the river, we reach the hot springs in the centre of the small, terraced village of Tatopani, where we have plenty of time to soak our grungy bodies in the gushing hot water, and then perhaps go for a swim in the icy river below, drying off on the wonderful river-side beach. A gentle climb through the woods past some spectacular waterfalls, across another suspension bridge and through a short section of forest path and we reach Doban, where we stop for lunch. Above Doban, the Buri Gandaki descends in an impressive series of steep rapids. Here, our trail climbs high above the river to descend through what appears to be a huge gateway into some secret place; in front the valley widens, the river calms, and we splash through streams before coming into our camp below Jagat, the entrance to the Manaslu park. It is worth wandering around this beautiful, paved village, where proud villagers have recorded how much they contributed to these paving schemes; Jagat people love their village! Our campsite is impressively clean and grassy, with cold beers available at the shop next door.
Day 07 Trek from Jagat to Philim 1570m
After descending a long series of stone steps to the river, we climb a terraced hill to Saguleri, from where we can see the impressive Sringi Himal, 7187m. We pass through the charming, paved village of Sirdibas, where the local children might be selling oranges. Crossing the river again via a long suspension bridge at Gata Khola, the path splits, with the right-hand branch heading off towards the Ganesh Himal. Our route continues upstream, and again we have a steep climb to reach Philim and its Japanese sponsored school. We will either camp here or at a campsite an hour further, Eklai Bhatti.
Day 08 Trek from Philim to Deng 1540m
We pass through Eklai Bhatti, and then on through a narrow, dramatic gorge section with towering walls, and past a thundering waterfall just above us on the right of the trail. We cross the river three more times in the next two hours (on even more sketchy bridges, Nepali style) to avoid the difficult valley sides, and then leave the gorge, climbing at one point on steps cut into tree trunks, to the small village of Deng. This is the start of the lower Nubri region called Kutang, where the people are ethnically Tibetan but speak a different dialect than the people of upper Nubri. We camp just below the village, and get fresh greens from the family that owns the land. It's worth a visit to the upper floor of their house above us, perhaps for a glass of local 'chang', or Tibetan beer, and for a chat around the hearth. It starts to feel like a piece of old Tibet at last.
Day 09 Trek from Deng to Ghap 2165m
The valley is still steep-sided and impressive; we cross to the village of Lana, and start to see mani stones (prayers etched onto wayside rocks), a sure sign that we are entering another of the tiny Tibetan footholds that mark the high Himalayan places. After about three hours, we reach Ghap, where we set up camp for the night at the house of some wonderful villagers. The egg-shells strung above their 'tea-house' door prevent the evil spirits from entering the house. The sun goes down early here, so we will cross the small bridge spanning the Buri Gandaki and trek steeply up for 45 minutes to the village of Chaak, where the son of the tea-house owner lives with his family. There is a small, deserted gompa, carved mani stones (the style here is distinctly different that most other Tibetan Buddhist regions), and some Tibetans from Samdo who graze their yaks here. In the village, they will be drying their maize to grind into flour, and then trade with the people of upper Nubri, and we might be invited into the son's house for some Tibetan salt-butter tea and roasted maize on the cob. Look out across the river for views of the village of Prok perched on the plateau jutting over the river below us. From Chaak, you can trek further to Kwak, and there is a trail up to Shringi Himal base camp.
Day 10 Trek from Ghap to Lho 3180m
Today is a wonderful trekking day; after passing through the seemingly deserted village of Nambachhe, planted with fields of barley and lined with mani walls, we ascend through a dense, cool forest for an half an hour to Namrung, at 2540 meters, where we will stop for a cup of chai. A few hours later, we reach the village of Lihi at 2840 meters, a substantial altitude gain. The air is pleasantly cool, and we stop for a breather before heading on the Sho, which we can see on the ridge ahead, for lunch on the deck of a local house. Look for the bear claw on the upper deck of the house. From Sho, the views of Ngadi Chuli are spectacular, and further on, towards Lho, we are finally treated to views of Manaslu itself; quite an impressive afternoon!
Day 11 Trek from Sama Goan 3525m
We gain altitude to take us into alpine territory and increasing mountain views. There are more mani walls and three more crossings of the Buri Gandaki on our route to Namrung, a great place for morning chai in the Manaslu lodge, run by friendly Tibetan family; check out their prayer area and masks! Above this village the valley opens out and there are extensive pastures. We are climbing climb gently now, cross a large stream flowing down from the Lidanda Glaciers, and reach the picturesque Tibetan village of Sho at 3000m. We may camp at Shyala, or push on to Sama Gaon; from either there are incredible views of Manaslu. Sama Gaon, or Ro, as the locals call it, sits in a bowl at the foot of the pastures leading to the high peaks. The people settled here from Tibet over 500 years ago and there are two gompas dating from this time with unique architecture, built of wood. The Tibetan villages here have entrance gates which are very distinctive from Ladakh and Tibet, and they maintain an active trade with their coreligionists in Tibet (notice the Chinese brandy and beer on sale). If the weather is good, you will see the village women weaving wool (baal) from Tibet into gowns - which are then traded back to Tibet
Days 12 Rest day at Sama Gaon for acclimatization
Rest day at explore hill side and make a good physical condition to an acclimatization for expedition.
Days 13 Trek from Sama Gaon to Manaslu Base Camp
Today, we walking on ascending for manaslu base camp and our Sherpa staff make a camp site over there.
Day 14 Manaslu Base Camp to High Camp
Day 15-35 (21 days) Climbing period of Manaslu 8,163m
We follow a cautious acclimatization schedule at base camp before taking our first trip up the Manaslu glacier. The climbing begins immediately out of base camp as we step onto the Manaslu Glacier. The route will be heavily crevassed and we will place bamboo marker wands and fix rope over the more dangerous sections.
The climb from base camp to camp one takes between 2-4 hours.
Camp one sits on a protected shoulder at the head of the Manaslu glacier at the foot of the North Peak, a separate satellite mountain of Manaslu. The route continues up steep slopes which lessen as the route progresses, weaving between seracs. There will be fixed ropes in place on most of the route from camp one to camp two. This is the most technical section of the climb and takes between 3-6 hours. Some strong climbers skip the night at camp one on their second trip up the glacier and climb directly from base camp to camp two.
Camp two is located at the top of the serac section of the climb on a somewhat flat area safe from danger, although this campsite can receive a lot of snow accumulation. The route continues up the upper glacier before increasing in steepness as we start to approach camp three. This camp is notorious for experiencing strong winds and we need to make sure our tents have bombproof anchors. The climb from camp two to camp three is one of the shortest on the mountain and takes between 1.5-3 hours.
Camp three is placed on a flat saddle that sits just below the col, hence the reason this campsite receives strong winds frequently. The route continues up the remaining glacier weaving through seracs with some short steep sections of ice and snow which will have fixed rope in place for safety. There is an exposed traverse with remains of past expeditions in the shape of old abandoned and destroyed tents which takes us to high camp, camp four. The climb from camp three to camp four takes between 4-8 hours.
Summit day will start late evening or early morning depending on the conditions and the route heads up a moderate slope immediately out of high camp before arriving at the first of the summit plateaus. The route climbs three separate tiered plateaus before arriving at the final pyramid slope. From here another short steep slope below the immediate summit is climbed until reaching the fore summit. The true summit is reached with an exposed technical traverse for around 70 meters in linear distance and this section needs to have fixed rope in place. The climb from camp four to the summit takes between 4-8 hours with 2-4 hours for the descent to camp four.
During this expedition the team will be supported by a 1:2 Sherpa to climber ratio. Team members can travel independently in groups or pairs lower on the mountain and will have Sherpas to accompany them at all times above camp three. All of our Sherpas are 8,000-meter experienced and some have reached the summit of Manaslu.
Day 36 Trek from Manaslu Base Camp to Sama Gaon
Day 37 Trek from Sama Gaon to Namru
Day 38 Trek from Namru to Ngyak
Day 39 Trek from Ngyak to Jagat
Day 40 Trek from Jagat to Machhi Khola
Day 41 Trek from Machhi Khola to Soti Khola
Day 42 Trek from Soti Khola to Arugat Bazaar
Day 43 Drive from Arugat Bazaar to Kathmandu
Day 44 Rest days at Kathmandu
Day 45 Departure to your next destination
Cost for manaslu base camp service only:
Single Persong: US$ 7500
02 Person: US$ 7,000 per person
03 Person: 6500 per person
04 Pax: US$ 6250 per person
Extra: Cost for Climbing Sherpa per person US$ 3,800
Note: - For a one climbing permit, maximum 15 person will be allowed in a group.
Note: - For a one climbing permit, maximum 15 person will be allowed in a group.
Cost includes for manaslu base camp service only:
· 5 nights Hotel (5 star hotel) stay in twin sharing bed & breakfast basis
· Mt. Manaslu expedition permit fee , Manaslu conservation area fee
· Ground transportation: Kathmandu - Gorkha - Kathmandu and necessary transport upto base camp and back for climbers, expedition staff, government liaison officer, foods and equipments
· Accommodation in teahouse/lodge in twin sharing basis in the route wherever available
· Foods and fuel supply for trekking days and upto the base camp
· Airport transfers (pick up and drop)
· Base Camp to Advance Base Camp 1 tent for 2 person provide North Face or same qualities
· All camping equipment : Dining tent, Table, Chairs, Toilet tent, Mess tent and Kitchen tent
· Expert professional Nepalese expedition crews like Cook, Kitchen boys, and necessary porters to carry members' equipments, food and fuel, kitchen and dinning materials to Manaslu Base Camp and back. Our staffs get all expedition equipment from our office.
· Insurance, salary, daily allowances, equipment allowances for Nepalese crews
· Satellite phone on base camp on payable basis (US$ 5 per minuet)
· We provide ratio set per person for communication
· Solar panel or generator only for Base Camp
Cost for manaslu expedition service upto SUMMIT:
01 single person: US$ 12,500
02 Person: US$ 12000 per person
03 Person: US$ 11500 per person
04 Person: US$ 11000 per person
Cost includes for manaslu expedition full board service upto summit:
· 5 nights Hotel (5 star hotel) stay in twin sharing bed & breakfast basis
· Mt. Manaslu expedition permit fee , Manaslu Conservation and National park fee
· Ground transportation: Kathmandu - Gorkha - Kathmandu and necessary transport upto base camp and back for climbers, expedition staff, government liaison officer, foods and equipments
· Airport transfers (pick up and drop)
· Accommodation in teahouse/lodge in twin sharing basis in the route wherever available
· Foods and fuel supply for trekking days and climbing periods. Also Cooking Gas, Climbing Food, Stove, Cooking Equipment are provided.
· 8 Tents are provided for base camp and camp (1,2,3) of North Face or same qualities
· All camping equipment : Dining tent, Table, Chairs, Toilet tent, Mess tent and Kitchen tent
· Expert professional Nepalese expedition crews like Cook, Kitchen boys, and necessary porters to carry members' equipments, food and fuel, kitchen and dinning materials to Manaslu Base Camp and back. Our staffs get all expedition equipment from our office.
· Insurance, salary, daily allowances, equipment allowances for Nepalese crews
· 1 Climbers get 1 Climbing Sherpa
· 2 Oxygen Bottles of 4ltrs capacity each for climbers with mask and regulator
· Satellite phone on base camp on payable basis (US$ 5 per minuet)
· We provide ratio set per person for communication
· Common climbing equipments for group (fix ropes, ice crew, ice bar etc)
· Gamow Bag (life saving device incase of altitude sickness) is provided if the groups exceeds 6 members.
· Solar panel or generator only for Base Camp
Cost excludes mention above the program
· Airline tickets and airport taxes
· Nepali visa and extension fees
· Lunch and dinner during stay in Kathmandu
· Hotels after 5 nights in Kathmandu
· Personal equipments for trekking and climbing
· Laundry, postage, telephone calls and all other items of personal nature.
· Applicable permit fees and customs charges, etc. for SAT phone, communication equipment and commercial filming.
· Personal insurance such as travel, accident, medical and emergency evacuation.
· Bonus and summit bonus for climbing Sherpa (if using) and Tips for Base Camp Staff
· All the things not mentioned in cost includes
Note: - Garbage Deposit fee: US $ 3000 (REFUNDABLE). Garbage is to be handled to the Nepalese base camp staffs after expedition ends. It will be not refunded if the climbers don’t take back their garbage back to BC.
Emergency Helicopter RESCUE: If any of a climber is in bad condition or gets high altitude sickness then there is a possibility of rescue from helicopter. For this service, a climber has to do travel insurance in their home country because we didn’t do any kinds of insurance for climber.
Good advice
Climbing any 7000m and 8000m above is a dangerous pastime. No one can guarantee your safety at 7000m and much less at 8000m and over. So in our price we include personal high altitude Sherpa-guides for the summit attempt. According to our long Mt. Everest, Mt. Cho-Oyu, Mt. Shishapangma, Mt. Dhaulagiri and Mt. Manaslu experience it is a must, especially if you have no previous experience in climbing above 8000m. A Sherpa-guide will enormously enhance your safety and chances of successful summiting. He will carry the supply of your oxygen to the top (and help you down if need be). The only drawback is he will cost quite a sum. But certainly you will get a very good value for your money – at the bad concourse of circumstance it might be your life’s value.
Booking procedure
If your decisions to take part in our expedition if firm please send us e-mail with:
Confirmation (in a form you prefer)
First name(s)
Family name
Present mailing address
Phone number
Date of birth
Citizenship
Passport number, its date of issue and expiration
Jacket size (M, L, XL) - for Team Jacket
1 Team jacket (wind block),
2 Team T-shirts
Your digital photo
Payment procedure
- Non-refundable deposit of US$ 3000 must be wired to our bank account
- Second non-refundable payment:
4000 US$ + deposit of 1000 US$ for each extra service (375 USD for each extra oxygen-cylinder). Must be maid prior to January 17th 2011
- Balance payment for the whole program and all the extra services and products must be made prior to February 04th 2011
NOTE:
- IF APPLICANT FAILS TO MAKE THE ABOVEMENTIONED PAYMENTS IN DUE TIME, HIS/HER APPLICATION IS CANCELLED AND ALL PREVIOUS PAYMENTS ARE NON-REFUNDABLE.
- ALL YOUR PAYMENTS FOR ANY SERVICE AND EQUIPMENT ARE NON-REFUNDABLE AFTER THE FIRST OF FEBRUARY.
- NO REFUND WILL BE GIVEN IF A MEMBER LEAVES A TRIP FOR ANY REASON EITHER VOLUNTARILY OR INVOLUNTARILY. NO REFUND WILL BE GIVEN FOR ANY SERVICE OR PRODUCT NOT USED DURING EXPEDITION. THIS INCLUDES (BUT NOT LIMITED TO) OXYGEN.
Necessary
Climbing permit for Mt. Manaslu Expedition (a group one)
By land
Transfer from Kathmandu to Arughat
Meeting and seeing-off
City transfers in Kathmandu
Bus and truck for the loads Kathmandu to Arughat to Kathmandu
Coastar (or minibus) for members and a truck for luggage and staff from Kathmandu to the Base Camp and back
Carrying loads above BC: porters carry loads from BC to High Camp and back. One porter (20 kg) per member from BC to ABC. Yaks carry your personal equipment.
High altitudes Sherpa’s carry all expedition equipment above High Camp. They pitch and strike high camps and bring up and down all the camping (including sleeping bags with foam pads), climbing gear, food and oxygen. The latter is brought to three camps: at 7000m (one 4-liters “Poisk” bottle per member), 7700m (one 4-liters “Poisk” bottle per member) and 8300m (2 4-liters “Poisk” bottles per member).
Accommodation
Malla Hotel 5***** in Katmandu for 5 nights in double rooms (3 nights before and 2 nights after expedition)
All accommodation in route with our expedition staff in camping site
In BC and High Camp - 1 tent for 1 member
High camps – 1 tent for 3 members
Meals
Meals in the Base Camp, High Camp in the 3 times a day, prepared by our expedition crew on gas stoves in kitchen tents. In these camps you can get any amount of hot water for washing and boiled water for drinking. We eat in spacious mess tents equipped with tables and chairs.
Food for the ascent – we provide special light-weight dehydrated food-stuffs made by western companies and in the camp higher the you make your meals yourselves on gas stoves. The cooking is simple, just add boiled water and wait a bit. Water is melted snow.
Staff
Expedition leader from "Climber" - experienced Manaslu summiter
Liaison officer
Cooks, Kitchen staff: one for BC
High-altitude porters (Sherpa’s), all with Manaslu experience: one for a member. They go with the team all the way form High Camp to the summit
Guides – one for 5 members
Doctor in BC: There will be a doctor in BC. We provide a big expedition first aid kit with all the necessary first aid (only!) medicines, and we strongly recommend that you bring your own specific ones you think you might need.
Medical insurance is a must!
Weather
Weather on manaslu is very changeable. Every day we will look for forecasts in Internet and adjust to them our planning of acclimatization and ascent.
Extra expenses
Single accommodation in Kathmandu (5 nights) – 450 US$
Extra nights in the “Malla Hotel”5***** hotel in Kathmandu in double rooms
Extra mask and regulator (1 set) – 700 USD
Extra oxygen 4 liters cylinder – 600 USD
Delivery of extra cylinders to high camps – 150 USD for one
Extra porters for personal equipment (25 kg maximum) from Base Camp to High Camp or from High Camp to Base Camp – 150 USD
Tips for BC and High Camp staff – about 200 USD from member
Price of your personal Sherpa, who carries your personal stuff from BC to high-altitude camps and goes with you from BC to high camps all the way from BC to the summit, is 3000 USD (includes oxygen, food, personal gear etc.)
Internet, phone
Electricity:
In BC and in High Camp we organize 220V with the help of generator and 12V with Solar batteries.
Each member will have a possibility to charge any electronic device
In Camps 5800m and 7000m - 12 V with Solar batteries
Walkie-Talkie:
On the route we use radios with 144.00 frequencies. All guides and Sherpas will have Walkie-Talkie.
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